My Old House: Mastering the Master Bedroom

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Mastering the Master Bedroom

The view from the balcony of the master bedroom is one reason I was drawn to this house.

The upstairs’ rooms needed a lot of repairs. The floors in the master bedroom and one of the other bedrooms had slightly sagging floors because of the length of the spans. The sub floors had to be ripped up and the floor joist reinforced. New subfloors were installed.

Painted hardware is one of my pet peeves, so I as I worked on the bedroom, I strip the paint off the hardware as I did with the other rooms in the house. I repaired and painted the walls that wonderful cream color and the trim white semigloss. The closet was not finished in the inside, so I lined it with cedar.

Some of my family volunteered to help lay hardwood. They had some experience, and I took a class on how to lay hardwood floors. We stayed up and worked for 22 hours straight installing oak flooring. I rented a power undercut saw that is used to cut off the bottom of door mouldings so we could slide the oak planks under them. It was a real time-saving tool and I highly suggest using one. The manual undercut saw recommended to me took way too much time and effort to do the same job.

Croft-Beck Floors finished the floors. I always hire professionals to finish wood floors. A bad job is costly in the long run because it can do so much damage.

My handyman rebuilt the balcony floor off the master bedroom and laid ash flooring which I varnished with marine varnish. The east porch and balcony was attached to house only by the roof of the balcony, so he bolted it to the house.

I rebuilt the railings and reinstalled them, one job that took forever and gave me fits at every turn.

I loved the bedroom set when I first saw it. I bought it before I moved to Manti and it really filled the small bedroom of my previous home. Little did I know how well it would match this home.

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Helpful Hints and Tips

Hint: Remodeling Notebook
I carry a small notebook with me containing measurements and layouts of each room with a list of items I need to purchase. When I am out looking for an item for one project, I will often come across something else I need for another one. I take out the notebook and refer to information I have already jotted down. I do not have to waste time to return home to take a measurement. You never know when you will come across an unexpected treasure!

Hint: Keep a Log
You will be grateful later if you have photographs and descriptions of the before and after of your remodel so the information is at your fingertips. I found it helpful to use a binder containing a page or two for each room that includes a paint chip to to refer to if I need to remix any paint later for touchups or if I run out of paint. I also include a swatch of fabric from upholstery, drapery, carpet or accessories. I take the binder with me when I go shopping so I can match other items in the room with any new purchases. I used my book to help make this blog.

Tip: Never Lost
Place items such as hardware or switch and receptacle plates with their screws in zip lock bags or plastic containers and label them with a black marker. Take the time to write which door the hinges, doorknob or window hardware is taken from etc. Later after the room is finished and is ready to be put back together, you will not have to try to remember what went where. It is always marked and easy to identify.

Tip: Paint Stripping
Paint strippers contain chemicals that loosen paint from surfaces. These chemicals can harm you if not used properly. I used three types of paint stripper.
1. Jasco® is fast and strong, but dries quickly.
2. Klean-Strip® Strip-X® Stripper took longer to work but did not dry so fast.
3. Citrisrip remover is the mildest, smell nicer but takes the longest to work.
I found that soaking or wrapping worked depending on the type of item I needed to strip (see my blog: Stripping: Not for Entertainment.

Tip: Stripping Paint Off Hardware
I used two methods for stripping hardware. To take paint off metal hinges you can boil them in water until the paint peels off. A second method is quicker but more toxic. It is to pour paint stripper (Jasco works good) in a wide-mouth glass quart jar. Drop hardware in the stripper and partially screw on the lid because as the stripper works pressure will build up in the bottle. Let the items soak in the jar for a couple of hours. Put on rubber gloves and remove each piece. Wipe off softened paint and then wash the items with soap and water. A toothbrush is a handy tool for removing paint from crevices. If some paint remains, repeat the process. The stripper can be used several times.

Tip: Painting Screws
To spray paint a number of srews, poke the sharp ends in a piece of styrofoam. Spray them with a couple of coats of primer. When dry, spray them with desired spray paint.

Tip: Removing Masking Tape
First: after painting trim, remove the masking before the paint is completely dry so none of the paint peels off with the edges of the tape. If some of the paint starts peeling as you remove the tape, use an xacto knife or utility blade to lightly cut along the edge. If the masking tape will not come off without doing damage to the surface it is stuck to, hold the hairdryer just three or four inches away from the tape. The heat will soften the adhesive as you gently pull it off the wall. This technique will work on almost any kind of tape or label and remove it from wallpaper, paint, wood finishes.

Tip: Cleaning Brushes
The type of finish you are using will dictate the solvent or thinner you use to clean the brush.
A painting project can only be as good as the paint and paintbrush you use for the job. Always buy a couple of expensive brushes for painting trim and cutting the paint at the corners of a room and around trim. After using latex paint, wash the brush with dish soap and hot water until when you bend the bristles the wate runs clear. After washing a brush, put the handle between your palms and spin it back and forth to spin out the excess water. Shape the bristles back in place and let it dry. If paint has hardened up near the ferrule of the brush, soak it in paint remover. When the paint has softened, wash the brush and comb it with a metal brush comb to remove paint flecks.

Tip: Rollar Covers - to Wash or Not to Wash
When I paint with latex paint using a synthetic roller cover, I don’t wash it out between uses, I freeze it instead. I wrap the paint roller with its cover in a plastic grocery bag and keep it in the freezer between uses until I am finished with a paint project using the same color of paint. Keep the roller loaded with paint and as long as most of the air is excluded it will not dry out, even with oil-based paints. When I am ready to apply another coat of paint, I take the roller out of the freezer for about 15 minutes until the paint thaws.
I love a lambs-wool roller cover for nicer applicaton and a smooth finish. These are worth washing for use on another paint project.

Tip: Firestarters
I have a wood stove for supplemental heat, and I use a lot of fire starters. Pine cones dipped in wax work great. I bought a used crock pot at a thrift store and use it to melt old candles. Using a pair of tongs, I quickly dip the pine cones in the melted wax and place them on a sheet of wax paper. After they dry, I put them in plastic grocery bag and store them in my antique commercial butter churn. I put some of the wax-covered cones in a large crock near the stove (but no to close since they are flammable) for easy access, refilling the crock as needed. I store any excess wax in the crock pot until I need to dip more cones.

Tip: Rain Chains
If you live in a climate with lots of snow, ice and freezing temperatures, it is recommend that you take your rain chain down before winter sets in. The weight from ice can pull them down, sometimes damaging rain gutter.

Tip: Cutting Cinnamon Roll Dough
Roll out dough and spread with melted butter and cinnamon or other topping. Roll it up like a jelly roll. Take about 12 to 18 inches of dental floss or heavy thread. Slide the center of the floss under one end of the roll of dough, about 1 inch from the end. Cross the length of floss over the top of the dough and pull. The dental floss will slice right through the dough without flattening it. Repeat about every inch. See my blog: What is that Smell? for an illustration of this technique.

Hints: Successful Bread Making
1. Do not use liquids that are too warm, using liquids that are above 130 degrees will kill the yeast in your dough. Liquid should feel very warm to the touch - not burning hot!
2. Old yeast will not rise, but yeast can be stored indefinitely in the freezer! I prefer quick-rise yeast. I buy it in bulk and store it in the freezer.
3. Coating the crust with butter after baking while it is still warm produces a soft, buttery flavored crust.
4. If you are not sure whether you bread is done, tap the crust lightly with your finger tip. If it sounds hollow, it is done!
5. Cut bread with an electric knife. You can even cut warm bread into even slices.

Hint: Metal vs. Fiberglass Insect Screening
Insect screening for doors come in bronze, galvanized steel and aluminum. Bronze is expensive, galvanized steel can rust so aluminum is the most widely used. It comes in natural aluminum color, black and charcoal.

A slightly less expensive alternative is fiberglass screen coated with vinyl. Fiberglass screening will not rust, but is easier to tear than metal. It is also prone to stretching when pushed. Fiberglass screens tend to get hard and brittle with age. The coating material also wears off with age and sun exposure leaving patches of white fiberglass strands exposed. Fiberglass comes in more color choices, ranging from charcoal, brown to aquamarine.

My Old House

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Mastering the Master Bedroom

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